The Hidden Valley

- Never Stop Dreaming -

Once a year in May, there is a week with consecutive national holidays in Japan and each year many people look forward to this particular week. This is the Golden Week as most people come to know. From what I have learnt from the past conversations with Japanese around me, most working Japanese are rarely ever granted or allowed to take leaves for more than 3 days let alone 1 week. So this Golden Week is like a national blessing for a long deserve break. While most Japanese would rather travel interstate in Japan because they fear the uncertainty outside their country, the language barrier is perhaps the biggest set back for them.

And this year, Golden Week was nothing more than a namesake for it was raining almost every day in the week. I am not implying that I am having second thoughts for such foul weather but rather, I AM implying that I am actually delighted it did turn out this way. You see I really can’t stand the heat so cool weather really “warms” me up. Of course after being accustomed to the harsh winter, a little hint of the summer heat would send me scampering for the freezer and not to mention the fact that I was already in love with the rain back in SG.

So I really can’t remember what I did last year for Golden Week…presumably nothing too spectacular but this year, I treaded into more unknown regions of Japan in my prefecture. The journey had led me to discover an abundant history buried deep in the valleys and also inspiring endeavors attempted by other SGreans. Kiso (木曽) was the place of my great escape (from the monotonous routine working life). The trip had led me to discover many interesting places, history, information, friends, etc. Nakasendo (中山道) was a inbound mountainous supply route that runs from Tokyo to Kyoto some 200 odd years ago. While most of the 546km route was already converted to main public roads, a small section of the old Samurai route was beautifully preserved in some of the 69 post towns along this route. These 69 post towns were artistically depicted in Ukiyo-e which was a series of some of the finest art in the world that flourished during the 17th century. Surprisingly the relatively unknown town I am in now (Mochizuki 望月) which used to supply fine horses to the Imperial Family happens to lie along the old Nakasendo as well. With only a day's time available, I visited 2 of the post towns, Tsumago-juku (妻籠宿) and Magome-juku (馬籠宿) which lies deep along the PicturesqueKiso Valley. The winding dual lane serpant road (Route 19) draws a tarmac line at the bottom of the breath-taking valley accompanied by the Kiso River. I was rewarded with a grey cloudy overcast sky with a gigantic arc of rainbow occasionally appearing in the sky. The journey there took a little longer than I had planned because I was stopping all over the place to snap pictures.

Tsumago-juku is a MUST visit if you do intend to drop by Kiso Valley. If you are coming by Tokyo direction, be sure to drop by Narai-juku for some fantastic pictures. Some interesting points along the route before hitting Tsumago-juku are,

A school with a really interesting architecture

A power station with it's own reservoir that look like a scene from Black Mesa (Half Life game).

Interesting assortment of bridges

Temples

Dams

Tunnels (yes I am a huge fan of tunnels)

and Ravines

Ok ok so back to Tsumago-juku...the parking is ￥500 for all day long. This post town is basically a long stretch of an old street lined on both sides with old Samurai style wooden Japanese houses. Most of the houses have been re-done but still bear a strong indication that they were built some 200 years ago. Too bad only less than a countable handful of houses are actually opened to the public with intricate tools and set up from the past. The other remaining houses were simply converted into stores or restaurants selling fame local produce ranging from wooden wares to soba noodles. If you like rich warring history like me, then of course well preserved Samurai towns like this are worth losing precious sleep to drop by. Strolling thru from one end to the other end was simply a breeze because I was indulging myself in the ambience of such a historical place to immerse in the yester years. Weather was pretty kind and with temperatures hovering around 14 odd degrees, I couldn't possibly ask for anything else. Occasionally I have to confess I did check out those massive DSLRs other intruders like myself were carrying. At times, everyone was snapping at the singing birds perched on the ledgers of the wooden houses. Might be thru evolution but these birds weren't the least shy among humans and were graciously chirping birdy melodies.

In the end I left this memorable place with 2 Noren(s) (Japanese curtains) decorated with the scenes of the town...very very beautiful.

While en route to the next post town, Magome-juku in Gifu Prefecture, I did stopped by a pretty cool waterfall in the forests. Because there were parking lots for cars at the waterfall spot, it was relatively easy to go on a picture spree. However there were those 200 year old stone paths thru the forest that were enticing my every senses to venture into it. Just too bad I really didn't know the place well enuff and the abscence of parking spaces in those mountain passes send me packing to the next post town.

Magome-juku was a little different from the previous post town in the fact that it's basically a long stretch of down hill walkway thru closely clustered houses or rather residence. Littered with shops, tea houses and restaurants on both sides of this pathway, the houses here were far more modernised although quite a number still bear marks of the distant past. A very nice gutter with intricate pipe work flows along side the pathway to a huge water wheel somewhere. Not as authentic as Tsumago-juku and doesn't give the Samurai Oomph if you ask me but nonetheless still good for a decent stroll. Here in Magome-juku, the famous residence of Shimazaki Toson, a famous Japanese poet could be found and an entrance fee applies to enter the white-walled residence to see the massive garden. I would definitely like a house like this. Further down the street, a narrow alley deviating off the main street leads to the tomb of this famous poet.

Ended the day without buying anything from here and headed back home in the wet darkness.

By the way while I was searching for information on the Nakasendo, I happen to chance upon a fellow SGrean site about his attempt to do a solo walk on the actual Nakasendo! That's right from Tokyo to Kyoto covering some 546km in total by not sleeping in a confortable inn, hotel, etc. but rather sleeping outside in the open. He is very impressive and almost comparable to climbing the Everest for this feat. God Bless him and wish him all the luck...so if you are interested in his GREAT feat, go ahead and click HERE

P.S. Pics will be up soon.