If you are eagerly waiting for this very lengthy and heavily peekture-filled post, then wait no longer because here it is. While not complete yet but at least there is something for you to enjoy. Processing portraitures are no easy feats because adjustments to skin tones, fill flash, ambience lighting are all pretty eye-straining processes. So the next time if you see me with box-shaped tele-scopic glasses on my face, then you will know that I did it FOR you.
Ok ok let's get on with it...Waking up really early to catch a train from Osaka to Kyoto, I hauled my 15++ kg backpack and brisked outta the exit of the Capsule Hotel. The gentle albeit cold morning breeze greeted me with grace and the empty but dirty streets from the previous nite of heavy partying was nothing more than an eye sore. And I was not ready to expose my camera of such junk...rather I had juiced up my batts for the big Kyoto Shootout.
A can of coffee and some riceballs of the "Mama" store near Namba Station and I was riding the 1 hour odd train to Kyoto. Nothing much to take on board the train, pretty regular people going about their daily boring routine. But I have to say I do get quite a decent amount of stares from the moment I stepped outta the Capsule Hotel this morning. The reason...I was clad in a T-shirt with a huge camera suspended around my neck and that I had a over-sized backpack. The temperature was hovering around 12 to 15 degrees and that's just nice for me to parade around in T-shirts so that I would not melt. Everyone else was wrapped in thick winter fur!
Was pretty happy to ride the train but only to find out that I had missed my stop to change trains and ended up in Nara instead. Waited for another 45 minutes odd to catch the next train to Kyoto but thank God, cousin Terry was late as well. Before reaching Kyoto, saw this gamer so intrigued in his game that he was totally unaware of the danger lucking above him...mine mine the hazards of a pro-fessional underpaid gamer...
"Don't try this at home or in the public!"
Upon reaching Kyoto station, I had no choice but to pull out my jacket and wrap myself in a layer of fleece followed by an outer shell. The temperature had plunged drastically to around 4 or 5 and when the wind blows...trust me it's cold. Since cousin Terry had not arrived, I took a walk to the back alleys and looked up...thought the valley between the 2 huge architecture was pretty neat with the sky sandwiched...SNAPPED!
And then minutes later Terry arrived with Kirsten and we were discussing some itinery stuffs in front of Kyoto Station when Terry began snapping Kyoto Tower. Found the shade from the roof of the station a good frame for the shot and SNAPPED!
Got almost the same picture as what Terry shot...not too bad.
Waited for a while and then went over to Starbucks across the street to meet Mai, my friend, my model and my tour guide for this trip. She might be really sweet and pretty from what others had claimed from seeing her photos, but her graceful and down-to-earth-with-no-airs personality charmed me. We headed to the Philosopher's Walk (哲学の道) which is a pretty famous stretch of path along a river lined with Sakura Trees.
Tested a couple of shots, fiddled with the setting, adjusted the flash to get the exposure correct...
Then took a deep breath, and asked Mai to pose for me. You see Mai is not a prefessional model, neither am I a professional photographer so I simply let her strut her stuff while I practiced my composure and fiddled with the settings.
Terry and I began to snap away taking turns to to fire our menacing flashes at them. So of course Mai might get a little lonely so I got Kirsten to join in the fun as well.
We walked on still snapping various stuffs like birds and Sakuras till we reached a long shopping stretch that leads to the Silver Pavilion (銀閣寺). Too bad it was under renovation and we simply turned away in dismay like many otherss. Different angle of the sun so once again fiddled with the flash and SNAP!
Somehow the faces of the people in the background have magically created a pair of "ears" (or do they look like horns) for Mai and that in a weird way surprised me when I was post-processing in on my Mac. Kirsten was also very natural so it was a breeze snapping the girly duos.
This was supposed to be totally candid as Mai was explaining to Kirsten about some traditional Japanese sweets and stuffs while strolling thru the rows of shops when I sneaked right up behind her and SNAP! But she caught me pre-focusing and "peaced" me.
A few more of the duo before we moved on for lunch.
Mai recommended some traditional soba shop which presumably was old, rustic but packed with a monstrous reputation. We had to queue like many others outside before we could make our way in to the tiny 2 storey premise. No pics not because photography was prohibited but rather the pics didn't turn out decent and I was indulging in gluttony. Can't remember the name of the store but the menus were all in Japanese and the menu was sort of like a compilation of calligraphy paintings.
After the hearty lunch, we headed to Nanzen-Ji recommended by Mai. The English Wiki site doesn't have much information but the Japanese one is quite informative. Nanzen-Ji have a 2 storey wooden gate which you have to pay ￥500 to go up. Plastic bags will be provided and you have to put your shoes inside it. The stairs up are narrow and slippery, and there are low beams so watch you head. But once up there, not only is the view magnificient, on a calm quiet day, you could hear the breeze rustling thru the leaves in the lush greenery behind the gate and the sound of the water gushing thru a river hidden in the greenery. Like what Mai claimed, a perfect place to study for exams but also a bit pricey. On the second storey, we were only allowed to explore the balcony surrounding an enclosed room which houses numerous Buddhas and Arhats. Impressive, breathtaking and very very Zen relaxing experience if you ask me.
But before going any further, before entering the sacred site and before going up the huge gate, I got the 2 lovely duos to look at something and SNAP!
And the shadows cast by the Sun and the massive pillars of the gate formed an otherwise fantastic frame for a picture, Mai moved in on my signal and posed as I told her.
After some good shots we discussed a little before everyone agreed in unision less me to go up the huge gate. I didn't regret it at all although a little reluctant initially...Brats!
Once up there after regaining consciousness from the impressive scenery, I began to don the photographer's mentality and FIRE away in grin. Properly exposing the backdrop and pushing the right amount of fill flash was crucial. Quite a bit of tedious post processing done here because the harsh firect flash burned some hot spots on the models' faces. Recommended to use a diffuser since bounce flash is retarded given no white surface to bounce. CS2 save the day again.
Terry was getting pretty comfortable with my 35L and his 580EXII so I thought candid was great.
Then back on to work for the Love Doctors before leaving the behemoth gate and treading deeper into the sacred grounds.
Inside it was equally crowded but I guessed the main highlights for me was this beautiful and charming bricked archway beneath the bridge. Asked Mai for some info regarding the bridge and was told that it used to carry water from the mountains to here. If one have absolutely no idea like me, the mere sight of this bridge would seem to be transporting trains instead of water.
Lovely arches with depth created a perfect shutter chance...
And Terry asked me for this ingenious shot that I agreed without the slightest hesitation.
Saw some other photographers doing a professional model shoot there as well. They had assistants, reflectors, dual cameras and lots of other studio equipment to give away the professionalism and yes I am green with jealousy.
Well then came along 3 Kimono-clad damsels giving out name cards and so it seems that they were from this particular Kimono rental service looking for customers. Wave my menacing but irresistable camera at them and viola, Instant Magic! She actually wanted the picture to be sent to the company but the name card was with Mai.
After that decided a change of location so that I can play with some natural Sun-filled goodness as the back highlights for the hair.
A couple more before leaving this wonderful place of shutter opportunities.
"Yeah less the lazy photographer as usual because he was too lazy to set up the tripod which had been tormenting him for the entire journey!"
And with that we moved on to peaceful emptiness of the Imperial Park grounds that surrounded the Imperial Palace right in the heart of Kyoto. With the warm rays of the in coming dusk, I thought some artistic ambience capture was a good stray from the intensive portraitures.
Then it was back to portraiture training again.
Whilst strolling thru the serendity of the place, I saw a little red riding kid playing in the crevices of this monstrous tree and I can't help but capture how this deciving image portrays the tree tormenting the poor kid which is outragously ironical in reality.
Decided to place Mai with the tree as well.
Walking out the dying lights to embrace a tired evening, the shadows seems interesting.
En route for dinner and had this splendid chance to see the dusk in Kyoto, my favorite place in Japan.
The sheltered walkways aka "buri(s)" reminded me of the wet markets back in SG except that they were a hell lot cleaner, mannered and interesting. From fresh fishes, to varieties of rice, preserved vegetables, fruits, snacks and pastries, we stopped for this Soy Milk mini donuts that could be gobbled in 1 mouthful. Mmmm tasty but I skipped the pics again.
And Terry caught me taking a nicotine mouthful before dinner...DANG!
Katsukura was the venue for dinner. Terry and Kirsten "chance" upon it when they were on the Shinkansen. Some random Ang Moh was asking where they were from and told them how he would always dine here each time he visits Kyoto. Did a check with my fabulously sweet tour guide Mai and found out that 2 of the main stores are in Kyoto and 1 in another place.
Again I have to apologise that I was so darn famished and also not to leave any oily marks on my baby camera, no pics of the food again. Go try it and tell me because it was simply heavenly for me as I almost fainted after dinner. Usual Katsu style dinner where the spicy red Miso soup, barley infused rice and garden fresh cabbage were all FREE FLOW. Man, even when I am writing this now I am salivating like a perverse rabid mongrel.
Seal of approval from Mai and Kirsten as well.
After dinner, Terry and Kirsten went back to Osaka because they had their lodging there, Mai drove me to Utano Youth Hostel where I crashed for the nite. This is probably one of the finest place to stay in Kyoto without losing a limb or a kidney. At only ￥3,300 per night, this newly renovated resort style hostel was more than what I had bargained for. The rooms were pretty standard with 2 twin decked spacious beds, pillow and comforter, individual locker big enuff to fit my massive 15kg backpack, sockets for chargers, a sofa and table with 4 chairs. If you are travelling in a group, 4 to a room at this place would be ideal. The place was very clean, very comfortable with wireless internet connection, shared baths, toilets and wash areas. The 2 storey architecture enclosed a beautiful garden in the middle and where further seperated from the males and females sections.
Right before you step into the hostel, there is a captivating willowing Sakura tree marcotted from the famous one in Maruyama Park I think. Really beautiful during Sakura season so be sure not to miss it.
Turned in for the night battered but delighted.
Will do a seperate entry on this with some pictures later.
End Day 1.
Woke up to a beautiful 2nd day of adventure after consuming a rich energy filled breakfast at the hostel for ￥600. They had coffee, tea, assortment of bread, jam, butter, spaghetti salad, sausages, scrambled eggs, etc. which I thought was pretty good. Of course coffee did spice my day as usual and after that I made my way to Kyoto Station to meet Terry and Kirsten since Mai couldn't make it in the morning. The bus stop was right outside the hostel so it was an ease to travel to Kyoto Station via bus 26. Some random Japanese was talking to me since my menacing camera once again became a subject of conversation.
Met Terry and Kirsten and off we go to Fushimi Inari(伏見稲荷) a couple of stops south of Kyoto Station. Inari is supposed the name of the Fox deity while the regular foxes are called Kitsune (狐) in Japanese. The Key in the mouth of the Inari is presumed to be a key to the rice granary.
"The majestic looking Inari over-looking the entrance to the shrine."
Anyway you can't miss the stop since bright orange and black colors will lead you straight to the shrine. Upon entering the first Tori gate, head left as there are a couple of souvenir stores where you can stock up your supplies. I particularly like the Japanese suzu (鈴) bells and the omamori (お守り) lucky charms from different temples and shrines. Here at Fushimi Inari, you can get the waniguchi (鰐口) which literally translate to Crocodile's Mouth. It's the long inter-weaved, plaided rope-liked thing with a bell tied to the top that you ring out loud at most Shinto shrines. They also carry fox plush in case you feel like being cute.
"Name list right at the entrance..."
Moving past the stores, head towards right up a series of stone steps and you will be greeted by 2 holy encased white horses before the start of the famous Tori gate tunnel begin.
On the back of these gates, names and details of those who contributed it are clearly visable...never forget to be grateful?
Some of the gates have aged so much over the years that the wood becomes rotten and only the base is visible. Taking some time of the gates, Kirsten strikes a comfortable pose.
Upon reaching the short phase of the tunnels, a little secluded place of worship can be found. Ema(s) (絵馬) the wooden plaque where you write your wishes in the shape of a cute faceless fox can be purchased.
These mini flags can also be purchased.
Behind the main prayer area, there is an altar where you can burn candles and stuffs. But it's the mini Tori gates that steals all attention. Oh by the way you can also buy the mini Tori gates at the store mention earlier.
This was how tired my cousin and his girlfriend was mid day going for lunch.
We went for lunch somewhere before going to the 金閣寺 (Golden Pavilion) but I had decided to skip the pics of the food because we were short on time (I think). But before leaving, I caught Mai playing with the adorable faux pup and I decided to "Holga-fied" it.
Here we reached the Golden Pavilion and the sun was a little to intense for me...yes I hate to admit I am cold-blooded like the snakes. Took one from the ticket booth of an adjacent building's roof.
Though I am not a huge fan of the Golden Pavilion simply because no one can get close to it and everyone just crowd in one place and take the same shots over and over again so that every single picture I see online are from the same perspective, I still have to take these shots because I had not other choice. So I just made the best use of it to frame all my lovely friends and cousin in every way I can.
After finishing the rather unspectacular walk thru the pre-determined path for all visitors, we headed to 龍安寺 (Ryoan-Ji) to see the famous Stone Garden. Well Terry and I weren't the most enthusiastic about stone gardens so we opted to skip it instead and also because of the time constrains we had before heading to our next location. But we did squeeze out the time to play a while in front of the Sakura Trees. Here I had the 3 girls competing with the transitory beauty of the Sakuras.
Terry trying to get acquainted with the Sakuras.
Mai stretching for a little tenderness from the Sakuras.
Even Eeyore couldn't resist the Sakuras.
And moving on to the Night Illumination at Kiyomizu-dera, I only managed to get these 2 ok shots outta a couple of un-usable shots (according to my own stringent requirement). The girls lined up in front of the entrance...
And because time was really short, I broke away from the team and ventured on my own to maximize every second. Whipped out my tripod with my camera mounted on top and scouted various locations to get the perfect frame. Yes there were a lot of other Japanese with point and shoot cameras taking pictures behind me at each time I planted the tripod and checked the viewfinder. Well maybe the menacing camera I had magnified my false expertise...but this un-edited 30 sec exposure night shot was one of the best in this series...
Headed for dinner at a rather nice restaurant which Mai had reserved...skipped all the shutter chance and simply wined and dined. The Kyoto sake which Mai recommended was just too good to pass up since I wasn't driving so yeah was going for the booze all night. After dinner, Terry went back with Kirsten to Osaka and I went on to grab more drinks with M and A.
The next day was simply at Arashiyama with M and A before I headed back home at 1600 hours so while in the car, I donned the sneaky paparazzi suit and found out that I really love capturing the intensity of peoples' eyes on the rear mirror. This was Mai's...
And all this while we had a silent buddy in the car so I decided to frame him (or was it a her) as well..."SNAPPED!"
Here at a small hidden shop somewhere near the entrance to the famous Bamboo Forest, an ice cream shop sells really amazing anti-gravity soy-based ice cream and no this is not the same as Turkish Ice Cream. The Master was exceptionally camera shy and soft-spoken but superbly well-mannered and humble. Mai compelled to pose with it over her head despite the assurance by the Master and hey it worked!
Limited Edition Sakura Ice Cream that wins hands down against my all time favorites like Haagen Daz, Ben and Jerry's and Movenpick.
Caught a little Maiko San in the car while strolling thru the junction at Arashiyama.
Caught another Geisha off the streets.
There...that spells the end of the Kyoto Epical Journey and thank you so much for being patient.
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